The Great Cave
The Great Cave is approximately 3 km
from the Park Office and is easily
reached via the plakwalk which is
enclosed on both sides by dense primary
rainforest. The stroll along the
planwalk is fascinating in its own
right, as you pass close to giant tapang
trees (Koompassia excelsa (Becc) Taub.)
with their enormous buttressed roots,
padanus plants twice the size of a
person and colourful exquisitely formed
orchids and tree fungi.
It is worth taking your time and walking
quietly along the way, as you may well
see some of the park's wildlife.
Colourful birds, squirrels, lizards,
butterflies and all maner of unsual
insects and invertebrates are commonly
seen. If you are lucky, you may see
monkeys, flying lizards and the
ocasional hornbill.
The first significant rock formation you
reach is the Trader's Cave, which is
really an extended rock overhang rather
than a cave proper. This is where the
birds nest and quano traders conduct
their business, hence the name.
A few minutes later, the West Mouth of
the Great Cave comes into view and you
are left in no doubt that this cave
deserves its name. At over 60m high and
250m wide, it is one of the world's most
spectacular cave entrance leading to an
even larger chamber within. On the left
of the cave mouth the archaeological
excavation are clearly visible.
Photographer should come prepared as the
view from the cave mouth out over the
surounding jungle is quite unique and
the jagged stalacites, overhang and
dangling creepers of the cave mouth make
a dramatic frame for a very memorable
photo.
Proceeding into the cave, the sound of
disembodied voices mingles with the
squeaking of million of bats and
swiftlets to create an eerie atmosphere.
The voices belong to the guano (bird and
bat excrement) covering the cave floor.
The guano is then carried in sacks to
the Sungai Niah, where it is graded and
sold as fertiliser.
The Large Chamber (Padang)
The passage at the back of the Great
cave leads to the large chamber known as
'Padang' where shafts of sunlight stream
down from the large holes in the cave
roof to illuminate the bizzarre rock
formations in the Burnt Cave. This ia
another excellent spot for taking
photos. After the Padang, the cave
passage becomes pitch black and it is
here that you will need the flashlight,
not only to find your way along the
plankwalk but to view the extraordinary
shapes and weathering effects found in
the Moon Cave.
The Painted Cave
Shortly after the moon Cave, the
plankwalk emerges into daylight and a
short pathway through the forest leads
to the Painted Cave. This is the site of
the famous Niah cave paintings and the
place where the 'death-ship' were found.
The contents of the death-ships have
since been transferred to the Sarawak
Museum, but the wall behind the
fenced-off burial site.
The paintings can be difficult to see
unless you allow your eyes to become
accustomed to the light. They are
rendered in red hematite and cover a
long narrow strip (approximately 30m) at
the back of the wall. They potray
spread-eagled human figures, probably
representing warriors and hunters, some
of the animals of the souls of the
deceased on the dangerous journey to the
land of the dead.
Although the burial site at the painted
cave is far more recent than those at
the Great Cave, it is no less important
as it offers a clear insight into the
develoment of the traditional religions
of Borneo. It is worth spending some
time at the Painted cave, as the
atmosphere of the place is very tranquil
and relaxing resting place for their
ancestors.
Birds Nest
The guanocollectors are not the only
people who earn a living from the cave.
Strategically positioned bamboo poles
and leaders are evidence of the birds
nest collectors, local people who have
practised this dangerous occupation for
generations. The half million swiftlets
that live in the cave make their nests
purly from their own salivary secretions
and when the nests are cleaned and
cooked they produce the famous birds
nest soup, which is as highly regarded
in Chinese cuisine as caviar is in the
West.
Wildlife And The Rainforest
If you leave the Great cave and return
along the plankwalk around clouds
intermingling. This is the nighty
'changing of the guard' half a million
swiftlets are returning to their nests,
whilst half a million bats fly out to
forage in the forest. although this is
one of Niah's most spectalucar sight, it
represents only small niches in a
complex ecosystem. One of Niah's other
notable sights is the unsual number of
luminous fungi (which can be clearly
seen from the plankwalk at night)..