洞穴探密
Caves Exploration |
乌鲁吉兰丹洞穴群,
吉兰丹
Ulu Kelantan Caves, Kelantan |
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<Chinese Version>
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Ulu
Kelantan Caves, Kelantan |
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Some of Malaysia's richest
archaeological caves are to be found
along Sungai Kelantan: Gua Cha, Gua
Chawan and Gua Jaya. These caves are
archaeologically important as unlike
other caves throughout the Peninsula,
they have been undisturbed by guano
collectors. One reason for the lack of
disturbance is there are no roads to the
caves. So what better way to explore
them than as part of a white water
rafting trip?
Getting there
I went along with Khersonese
Expeditions, who pioneered the Nenggiri.
From Gua Musang it is about 30km to
Kuala Betis, and the put in point is
16km beyond Kuala Betis, and
conveniently close to Gua Cha, which is
on the left bank of the Nenggiri. This
area is accessible by four wheel drive.
The tar road from town turns into a
muddy logging track, which is made worse
by the procession of trucks taking out
logs from the forest. And the first
sight of the river is a wide brown
ribbon snaking through the greenness of
the surrounding forest. Nowadays the
river is constantly a rich brown colour
and is very silty, proof of all the
logging which is taking place in the
area. During the journey downstream, on
several occasions cleared scars can be
seen on the banks as a result from the
logging which is taking place. And the
once white limestone hills are now
stained a brown colour at water level.
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Gua Cha in
Ulu Kelantan is situated near Kuala
Betis and can be reached by a logging
track as mentioned above. It is one of
the most important archaeological sites
in Peninsula Malaysia, due to the number
of complete well preserved human
burials, the abundance and variety of
animal remains and cultural objects. Gua
Cha is the largest rock shelter along
the Sg.Nenggiri valley, and has been
inhabited since 9000 years ago. Do note
however, that Gua Cha can be visited
before starting out down river.
The site was first investigated by Noone
in 1935, then P.D.R.Williams-Hunt
briefly visited in 1951. G. de G.
Sieveking made the first serious
excavations in 1954, followed by Adi
Haji Taha in 1979. H.D.Noone only
partially excavated the site, and it was
G. de G. Sieveking who made the
important discoveries. Noone was working
at the Perak Museum, and doing research
on the Temiar Orang Asli. In the ten
days he spent digging, he found stone
tools and flakes, pottery and human
remains. He recognised the different
Hoabinhian and Neolithic layers, the
lowest layers (i.e. the oldest)
containing the Hoabinhian tools. The
term Hoabinhian refers to the pebble and
flake tool industry, which was in
southeast Asia from 12000-5000 years BP.
Neolithic, or New Stone Age, is
characterised by polished adzes and
axes, and pottery. The Hoabinhians were
hunters and gatherers, whereas the
Neolithic people were more agricultural
bound.
Williams-Hunt was Director of Museums,
and although he excavated Gua Cha in
1951, no full report was published.
Apart from tools, flakes and pottery, he
found a human skeleton laid under
limestone slabs. Unfortunately
Williams-Hunt died shortly after.
G. de G. Sieveking was working for the
Federated Malaya States Museums, Kuala
Lumpur, and systematically excavated Gua
Cha along with M.W.F.Tweedie of the
Raffles Museum, Singapore. Their
findings threw new light on the
prehistory of the region, indicating
that some Orang Asli were here around
10,000 years ago. And they showed the
importance of the Nenggiri as a major
inland route through the Peninsula. The
Hoabinhian tools and burials were found
below the occupation layers with
pottery, with a few signs of overlap
with the Neolithic. The Hoabinhians
probably occupied the shelter from
9000-5000 years ago. They had a well
developed industry with well made stone
implements, and living by hunting and
gathering. The Neolithic remains showed
burials accompanied by grave goods such
as pottery, polished stone tools, shell
necklaces and stone bracelets. In all
more than 30 burials were found.
Gua Cha has
had various names over the years. Noone
who first excavated the shelter referred
to it as Gua Menteri, after the large
stalagmite in the centre. The name may
have been derived from an Orang Asli
called Menteri who lived in Kampung Gua
Cha. The Temiar (orang asli) call the
shelter Gua Chos, their pronunciation of
Cha.
The rock shelter is in a limestone
cliff, and is about 18m long, with a
maximum width of 18m, and height of
about 13m. The cliff however is not
really part of a free-standing limestone
outcrop. A small stream runs past the
hill and flows into the Nenggiri.
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Gua Bukit
Peraling is at Kuala Yai, on the south
bank of the Sg.Perias, and 15 minutes
walk from Kampung Tohoi. The rock
shelter was discovered in the 1940's,
when H.D.Collings recorded it as having
great archaeological potential.
Williams-Hunt briefly looked at the site
in 1951. In 1994 a team from the
Department of Museums and Antiquities
began excavations under Adi Haji Taha,
and they found remains of human burials,
and blue Indian glass beads, stone
implements and pottery pieces. The glass
beads are similar to those found at
Santubong in Sarawak. It is estimated
that Gua Peraling was inhabited about
2000 years ago. It is a large rock
shelter, with two chambers, about 90m
long in all, and running parallel with
the Sg.Perias. |
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Gua Bukit Chawas and Gua Batu Cincin |
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Although these two caves are not visited
during the rafting expedition (the cave
is 8.5m long and 8.5m wide, and is in a
rubber estate), they are new discoveries
which are worthy of note. They were
found by loggers in 1992, and first
excavated in 1993, and findings have
shown evidence from the Hoabinhian and
Neolithic periods, as well as a
pre-Islamic Malay kingdom in Ulu
Kelantan from about 1000 years ago. It
was probably a Buddhist and Hindu but
not Indian culture, and part of the
Srivijaya Empire (600-1300 AD).
The caves are 7km from Kuala Betis, and
are about one kilometre apart, and only
accessible by 4WD. Bukit Chawas has 2
caves: Gua Chawas in which Gua Berhala
Kechil is situated, and the smaller Gua
Berhala Atas. The initial excavations
revealed Orang Asli remains of food
remnants and bone tools. Further digging
showed traces from the Srivijaya period;
ash layers are believed to be from the
baking of votive tablets as found in
various other caves, e.g. those in
Perlis. About 1000 pieces of tablet were
found in Gua Berhala Kechil, and show
images of Buddha and a Hindu god. The
Neolithic artifacts consist of ceramics,
polished stone tools, and food remains
such as bones and siput shells. Pebble
and flake tools are from the Hoabinhian
period. Gua Chawas is about 23m long,
10m wide and 5m high. There are some
paintings of a family on the roof.
In Gua Batu Cincin evidence was found to
suppose the cave was used as a camp
site. Pottery and cooking utensils were
found from about 2000-3000 years ago,
i.e. Neolithic. More recent is an Orang
Asli art gallery on the walls, from
about 300-400 years ago. These paintings
are similar to those found in Gua Sireh
in Sarawak. They depict people and
animals.
Adi Haji
Taha (1993) referred to the caves as Gua
Berhala in Gua Cina, at Gunung Biol.
The next caves of note are downriver,
and after an afternoon's rafting, one
arrives at Kuala Jenera, where camp is
made. Interestingly, Mike Gibby
described the Jenera as being clear
water - when I was there in November
1996, the water was really brown and
silty. Obviously logging is taking place
upriver. The following day an Orang Asli
guide led us along the forest path to
reach Gua Chawan.
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Gua Chawan
is situated on the left bank of the
Sg.Jenera and runs parallel to the
river. The cave takes its name from a
formation which looks like a cup. It was
excavated by British archaeologist Brian
A.V.Peacock in 1962-3, who thought the
site was a pebble tool industry from the
Hoabinhian period. He found tools and
pottery.
Following the cliff upstream there are
two small rock shelters, one of which
has some nice crystalline formations.
Further on is the main one "cave", again
just a large rock shelter, the only cave
passage being a loop of about 15m. But I
did see a solitary bird nest inside.
There are some charcoal marks about 15m
long on one wall, carbon dated to about
1000 years old, which may have been from
a fire used to make the votive tablets.
Maybe they were made here, and used in
Gua Berhala Kechil. There are a lot of
large stalactites hanging down from the
cliff. The rock shelter is about 100m
long, and 10m above the river.
Beyond Bukit Chawan is another limestone
hill, and across the river is the Orang
Asli settlement of Pos Gemala. We had a
traditional lunch here, quite a scenic
spot with the white hills rising tall
out of the green forest. That night we
slept in Gua Jaya, which is just
downstream on the Nenggiri.
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Today the only access to Gua Jaya or
Yahaya is from the river. The Orang Asli
took us in their boat, and mooring under
a low overhang, we had to scramble to
the bank and climb up the steep slope
using convenient tree roots. The cave is
about 10m above the river. The main
chamber is large, about 36m long and 23m
wide with quite a lot of guano on the
floor, but very few bats. About 1500
pottery shards were found here by
Peacock in 1962-3, and he suggested the
cave was used as a kiln. There are some
charcoal drawings of matchstick figures.
At the end of the chamber a climb up and
over some fine, small gour pools leads
into the next, smaller chamber. Here I
saw a nest of braken, and some
unidentified paw prints. Following the
cliff face in the other direction, i.e.
upstream, a climb leads up into a short
passage, but it doesn't actually lead
anywhere.
The next day is spent rafting down to
Kg.Keldong, which again has limestone
outcrops, although we were unable to
visit any. There is a small hill on the
left bank, opposite the resort, and
behind the resort is Batu Keldong. On
the final day, we went past several fine
deeply undercut limestone hills before
the put out point is reached at the road
bridge at Kg.Setelu (Setar). From here,
a 4WD ride took us back to Gua Musang. I
travelled this road with the Cave Group
in 1992 in an ordinary car; today the
road has become so bad that a 4WD is
necessary. There seems to be a lot more
logging activities generally in the
area.
Using evidence gathered from all these
caves in Ulu Kelantan, the
archaeologists can slowly piece together
the history of the area. Archaeological
evidence from Thailand can also help
complete the picture, as there were no
borders in those days. The caves were
probably used as shelters and campsites
during the nomadic lifestyle of these
ancient people. Perhaps the Semangs have
descended from the Hoabinhian, as they
have remained largely hunters and
gatherers, whereas the Temiars are the
descendants of the Neolithic, as they
are more agriculture-based. |
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